How to Grow redskin onion
Allium haematochiton S. Watson
Redskin onions are a prized heirloom bulbing variety known for their distinctive deep crimson-purple papery skin and mild, sweet flavor. These long-keeping storage onions are ideal for home gardeners seeking a reliable, productive crop that stores exceptionally well through winter, rewarding your patience with months of fresh onions from a single planting.
soil preparation
Redskin onions thrive in well-draining, fertile soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Prepare beds at least 2-3 weeks before planting by incorporating 2-3 inches of well-aged compost or decomposed manure into the top 8-10 inches of soil. These onions demand consistent nutrient availability, so ensure organic matter is evenly distributed. The soil should be loose and crumbly, not compacted—onion bulbs need space to expand laterally without resistance. If your soil drains poorly (stays wet after rain), build raised beds 4-6 inches high filled with amended garden soil. Remove any rocks, clods, or debris larger than a pea, as these obstruct bulb development. Onions prefer slightly elevated, well-drained positions over low-lying spots prone to waterlogging.
planting steps
Choose your propagation method
Redskin onions can be grown from sets (small bulbs), transplants (seedlings), or seed. Sets are fastest and most reliable for beginners—plant them 3-4 weeks before the last spring frost. If starting from seed indoors, sow 10-12 weeks before transplant time. Transplants should be pencil-thick (about 1/4 inch diameter) at planting. Seeds started directly in the garden require 120-150 days and are slower.
Tip: Sets are foolproof for first-time growers; seeds produce larger bulbs but demand more timing precision.
Prepare sets and transplants
If using sets, inspect each one for soft spots or mold—discard any that are damaged. For transplants, harden them off by placing them outdoors in a sheltered spot for 3-5 days before planting, gradually increasing sun exposure. This acclimates them to outdoor conditions and prevents transplant shock.
Tip: Trimming transplant tops to 4 inches before planting encourages better establishment.
Plant sets or transplants
Space redskin onion sets 4-6 inches apart in rows 12-18 inches apart, or stagger in a grid pattern. Push sets into soil so the tip is just visible (about 1/2 to 1 inch deep)—planting too deep reduces bulb size. Plant transplants at the same depth they were growing in containers, with the white part of the stem just below soil level. Water immediately after planting to settle soil around roots.
Tip: Crowded spacing produces smaller onions; proper spacing results in bulbs 3-4 inches in diameter.
Mulch to suppress weeds
Apply 1-2 inches of fine mulch (straw or shredded leaves) around plants, keeping it 2 inches away from stems to prevent rot. This conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses weeds that compete for nutrients. Mulch becomes increasingly important once bulbs begin swelling mid-season.
Tip: Remove or thin mulch in the final 4 weeks before harvest to allow adequate air circulation around developing bulbs.
watering
Redskin onions need consistent moisture during the first 6 weeks of growth to establish strong root systems and foliage—water deeply 1-1.5 inches per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to deliver water directly to soil, avoiding wetting foliage (which invites fungal disease). From week 7 through bulb maturation (approximately week 12-14 of growth), gradually reduce watering frequency as bulbs begin their hardening phase. During final 3-4 weeks before harvest, water only during dry spells (less than 0.5 inches rainfall per week); excessive water at this stage promotes top growth rather than bulb development and delays maturation. Watch for wilting leaves (a sign of insufficient water) or yellowing foliage with soft tissue (indicating overwatering). Soil should feel moist 2-3 inches down during active growth, then drier near the surface as harvest approaches.
feeding & fertilizer
Apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar NPK ratio) at planting time, working 1-2 tablespoons per 10 linear feet into the prepared bed. When seedlings or transplants are 4-6 inches tall (approximately 4-5 weeks after planting), side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer such as fish emulsion diluted to half strength, or an organic granular product at 1 tablespoon per plant. Repeat this feeding 3-4 weeks later. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after week 8 of growth, as excessive nitrogen delays bulbing and produces soft bulbs with poor storage life. If soil is poor or you notice pale, slow-growing plants, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted per label instructions every 2 weeks through mid-season. Once bulbs visibly swell and foliage begins to yellow-green, discontinue feeding entirely—this signals the plant is transitioning to bulb maturation and storage preparation.
pruning & training
Redskin onions require minimal pruning. Do not remove green foliage during growth—the leaves manufacture energy that fills the bulb. Once plants reach 8-10 inches tall and bulbs begin swelling (identifiable by a noticeable bulge at soil level), you may carefully remove any diseased, yellowed, or dead outer leaves without damaging the healthy foliage. If flower stalks emerge (rare in well-managed plantings), pinch them off at the base immediately; flowering diverts energy from bulb development. When the tops naturally yellow and fall over in late season (typically 110-130 days after planting), do not cut or disturb them—this natural senescence is the signal that bulbs are hardening for storage. Allow tops to remain attached and dry in place for the final 2-3 weeks before harvest.
harvesting
Redskin onions mature when approximately 70-80% of the foliage has yellowed, dried, and fallen over naturally—do not force this process. Typically this occurs 110-130 days after planting, usually in mid- to late summer. Gently pull onions from moist soil about 1-2 days after light irrigation, when soil clings slightly to roots but is not waterlogged (waterlogged soil damages bulbs during removal). Bulbs are ready for harvest when 3-4 inches in diameter and the papery skin is fully colored deep crimson to burgundy. Avoid digging with a fork, which often bruises bulbs; pull gently by the dried stem, working soil loose with your fingers if needed. Once pulled, leave onions in the garden for 1-2 hours to allow excess soil to dry, then carefully brush away soil by hand. Do not wash them at this stage.
storage & preservation
Cure redskin onions for 2-4 weeks in a warm (70-75°F), dry, well-ventilated location—a garage, garden shed, or screened porch is ideal. Spread them in a single layer on screens, racks, or clean straw; avoid piling. Turn them gently every 3-4 days for even drying. Curing is complete when necks are completely dry and papery to a depth of 2-3 inches down from the tip, and outer skin feels crisp and papery. Once cured, trim the dried stem to 1/2 inch, or leave it intact for braiding into storage ropes. Store in a cool (40-50°F), dry location with good air circulation—never in plastic bags, which trap moisture. Mesh bags, wooden crates with ventilation, or perforated produce boxes work well. Properly cured redskin onions store 4-6 months, sometimes longer. Inspect stored onions monthly and remove any that show soft spots, sprouting, or mold. Onions that begin to sprout can still be used; simply separate the cloves and use promptly.
common mistakes to avoid
- ✗Planting too deep: Sets planted more than 1 inch deep often produce elongated, narrow bulbs instead of proper round forms. Plant so only the tip is barely visible above soil.
- ✗Inconsistent watering: Alternating wet and dry cycles causes bulb cracking, splitting, and poor storage quality. Maintain steady soil moisture during the first two-thirds of the season.
- ✗Overcrowding: Planting sets closer than 4 inches apart produces tiny bulbs under 2 inches diameter. Proper spacing ensures each plant has adequate nutrients and light.
- ✗Feeding too late in season: Applying nitrogen after week 8 produces soft, onions with thick necks that don't store well. Stop fertilizing once bulbs visibly swell.
- ✗Harvesting too early: Pulling onions when foliage is still green results in thick-necked bulbs that don't cure properly and spoil in storage. Wait until at least 70% of tops have naturally yellowed and dried.
- ✗Inadequate curing: Storing onions without 2-4 weeks of dry curing causes rot and sprouting. Never skip this step, even for immediate use—curing prevents decay.
- ✗Wet storage: Storing onions in damp conditions or in sealed containers promotes mold and sprouting. Use well-ventilated storage with 40-50°F temperature and low humidity.
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